Nop Marley is my hero. His skills are fishing, building model boats, smoking his chillum and enjoying Good Freedom, as he calls it. He’s right. It really is.
A traveller I met on Ko Phangan mentioned Eagle View to me. “It’s quite out of the way unless you’re staying close by”… as it happened, I was. I’d booked the exact place they had just come from for my digs when I got to Ko Tao. Excellent.
So with this mysterious restaurant in mind, I set about finding it. It took something like two miles of walking uphill before I decided I’d missed the place. If you’ve been to Ko Tao then you’ll know that the flattest land it has is probably the road leading away from the port and to Sairee beach. Anywhere else is mountainous, unpaved and hard work! I gave up and went back to Coral View. Defeated. Damn.
The staff knew where the place was and gave me a better idea of where to turn off. Thirst quenched and spirits lifted, back up the hill I went. Left towards the temple, keep walking until the signs appear. Got it. Christ this better be worth it. Sweating again!
And there it was. Nop’s house. Eagle View. Hardly a restaurant at all. This is his home with a verandah which serves as a dining area for guests. Four little tables and some Mawn Kwan (The triangular cushions) to sit on. And the view! A 220 degree panorama now embedded in my brain for life. Paradise. I will come back here one day!
Just under a year later and already I’m making the climb again to Eagle View. To eat the catch of the day. To enjoy the Good Freedom. Nothing has changed!
The kids are still playing chequers and watching cartoons on TV. Nop’s wife(s) are still welcoming as ever and ready to rustle up whatever I like, but he’s out fishing. Good! Fresh fish coming and a great view to wait with
I went back to Eagle View in May this year for my birthday. I spent a week living with the family in the bungalow Nop built for his guests. I ate like a king and lived the Good Freedom. Memories for life.
And I will be back!
For those of you that arrived here from a search, i’d love to hear your story of Eagle view if you care to share Leave a comment below or send me an e-mail.